Unlocking more from trusted actives with smarter skin delivery
Some of today’s most successful hero molecules in personal care are not always easy to work with. Maybe that’s the nature of heroes – powerful but a little unruly.
As performance expectations keep rising, more attention is being given to the technologies that support active ingredients. These are shaping the way formulators approach stability, efficacy and how actives are actually delivered to the skin.
Rather than increasing dosage or endlessly reformulating, a new generation of delivery approaches focuses on how actives interact with the skin. By protecting sensitive molecules and guiding them through the skin barrier, smart delivery technologies help unlock the full value of well-established actives – with greater efficiency and control.
Smart delivery that adapts to the skin, not the other way around
The skin is a dynamic environment, where conditions such as pH naturally vary between the surface and deeper layers, directly influencing how actives perform once applied. Smart encapsulation technologies are designed to take this complexity into account rather than working against it.
This technology employs skin-stimuli-sensitive polypeptides as emulsifiers, forming biomimetic microcapsules that protect actives while enhancing stability, absorption and biocompatibility. Stable at skin-friendly pH, these capsules remain discreet on the surface and progressively deliver their content as they move through the upper layers of the skin. As skin conditions change, release is naturally modulated.
By working in harmony with the skin, this approach improves tolerability, limits unnecessary exposure at the surface, and allows more actives to reach their target sites – delivering higher efficacy without increasing formulation complexity.
Emissary’s biomimetic encapsulation protects actives at the skin surface and enables progressive, pH responsive release across skin layers. The delivery system facilitates the passage of actives through the stratum corneum and releases them in the epidermis, where they are most effective.
Four iconic actives, re-engineered through smart formulation
EMISSARY* brings together four well-known cosmetic actives, each enhanced through smart delivery technology to overcome traditional formulation and performance limitations. Designed for modern skincare development, this portfolio combines performance, stability and formulation ease, while respecting the skin’s natural balance.
Cerasule® expands the role of ceramides beyond traditional barrier support. Encapsulated ceramide NG delivers deep hydration while also supporting skin restructuration. Even at low dosage, it helps promote collagen and elastin recovery, contributing to improved skin quality over time. Cold-process friendly and easy to incorporate, Cerasule® offers a more efficient way to work with ceramides.
Haldisule® unlocks the benefits of turmeric extracts while removing one of their main formulation constraints: color. Naturally rich in turmerones, this encapsulated solution delivers antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits while supporting skin elasticity and firmness – all without impacting formulation aesthetics.
Hyalosule® brings hyaluronic acid into new formulation territories. Delivered in an encapsulated format compatible with oil-based systems, it supports hydration, collagen synthesis and wrinkle reduction. This innovative approach makes it easier to integrate hyaluronic acid into lipophilic formulations without compromising performance.
Retisule® addresses one of the most persistent challenges in skincare formulation: retinol instability. Encapsulated in Emissary technology, this BHT/BHA-free retinol solution is available in two formats: Retisule® (3% by weight retinol) & Retisule® Premium (10–13% by weight retinol). By protecting retinol from light, oxidation and heat, encapsulation enables high-performance retinol delivery with improved stability and tolerability.
Making performance more predictable, and more efficient
Emissary doesn’t reinvent cosmetic actives – it simply helps them work better, both in the formula and on the skin.
By bringing together stability, targeted delivery and strong formulation versatility (including the ability to work with both hydrophilic and lipophilic actives) it makes these ingredients easier to handle, more reliable, and more efficient overall.
What ultimately change is not the ingredient itself, but how reliably it performs: less loss during formulation, better penetration where it matters, more controlled interaction with the skin.
And that’s where the real value lies : moving from working around limitations to simply achieving the performance you expect.
Contact our cosmetic and personal care division to learn more about these heroes and how they can elevate the performance of your formulations.
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*Emissary is exclusively distributed in France and Switzerland by Actylis
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